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Colombia and the Caribbean

Colombia Is the nicest and most tourist friendly place ever, it has even more road side juice bars than Peru and the scenery combined with the eternal spring like weather makes it heaven the cycle tourist. I can see why so many great climbers come from Colombia, the locals ride up these near vertical mountains like it’s nothing, and they all seem to have a pro rider physique and attitude about them even when they’re just riding to work. The Amazon is a massive part of Colombia, most of it is virtually untouched like in Peru. Riding through these mountains […]

The Jungle

Riding through the Amazonian Tropics of northern Peru heading towards Colombia was again pretty full on but Amazing at the same time. The humidity meant my hands were constantly slipping off the bars and I could no longer camp on the floor due to the fire ants, also my trusty high tech navigation tool (google maps on the phone) started to fail me because most of the roads we’re off grid. This meant a total change of mindset, Instead of looking for interesting off road shortcuts like I had been doing all the way up, I was now looking for […]

Machu Picchu by Bicycle

Machu Picchu is one of the seven wonders of the world and is definitely worth battling through the hoards of tourists to see, especially if you find yourself within a hundred miles of the place. The slight problem is that there are no roads that go there it’s totally cut off and only accessible by train (or train line), and the rather posh looking tourist trains don’t allow bicycles on them. As a cycle tourist I want to generally travel on or with my bike, I also want to visit Machu Picchu so was determined to find a way to […]

The Sacred Valley – Peru

I’m not a morning person by any means, but some of the 100 mile days have meant getting up before sunrise in order to make the distance so when I’ve been on the edge of a city I’ve had the pleasure of seeing the city wake up which is a relatively new experience for me. It’s also the best time to see a big city as far as cycling goes as there is far less traffic. Wanting to get to the bottom of the Sacred Valley from Cusco in a day meant riding across Cusco very early in the morning […]

Lake Titicaca

This lake is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,812 meters. It doesn’t feel like a lake though, it’s more like riding next to the sea it’s so big. Boats, beaches and a horizons., maybe if it was salt water it would be called the sea of Titicaca. My first encounter with the lake was a little boat ride to cut the corner from the Bolivian side to the Peruvian bit. Here are some shots (below) from my phone showing how old skool the boats were. The passenger (and bicycles) boat was rustic enough and felt like a […]

Lycra-up to La Paz

  The road to Lapaz was a few hundred miles of welcome potholed tarmac and gravel which felt like luxury. I donned the Assos Lycra, used the bar bag to get me into aero mode and nailed it all the way to La Paz covering about 80 miles per day which was a record so far. La Paz is like a massive and very deep gash in the earth when you look at it from the approaching city of El Alto.  Lapaz is 3650m high which is crazy for a city so huge, it looks like you could wing suit base […]

Crossing the largest Salt Flats in the world

The Salar De Uyuni Is the largest salt flat in the world covering over 4000 sq miles. Again 4000sq miles doesn’t look that big at home on google earth but when you try and cross it it bloomin well is. Another unworldly place to add to the list, this place felt even dryer than the desert which was quite  a surprise. The salt here Is so hard, you have to pre-drill a hole with a knife and then hammer the tent pegs in, having done that though they we’re in they were in pretty solid!! The salt varies as you […]

Bolivian Sand Road to Uyuni

This is the stretch of road that the guy in Santiago said I wouldn’t be able to ride. Sadly it was looking like he might be right after all. As soon as the road started to climb, the desert instantly gave way to spiky little bushes and leaping Llamas, the huge skies here are amazing and so are the snow capped 5,000 m high mountains too. But like the guy said it’s just too hard if your on a time limit like myself, after half a day pushing and covering about 8 uphill miles in the sand I set up […]

A fond farewell to the desert

Waking up in yet another beautiful place, this time in the Valle de la Luna, seems too good to be true! In fact it probably is too good to be true too, I’m nearly out of water and food and my skin is crying out to be cleansed of salt and sand so it’s looking like my love affair with this valley has come to an end. The normal world full of other Humans is calling me back. Well that was until I bumped into a very lovely Chilean family who were the first tourists of the day in the […]

Rest day Cowboy style

After Riding through the Desert for what feels like months I finally came accross a town called San Pedro de Atacama  which is fully on the backpacker circuit but a welcome rest all the same. I checked in a farm hut type place on the outskirts and met a great Chilean couple who we’re on holiday from Santiago, They welcomed me with open arms to hang around with them to I spent a day drinking wine BBQ’ing and chatting via google translate. The town was like a cross between another Mexican town and Marrakech, really cool place and amazing to […]

Lost In Space

  To try and describe these three nights in words would be pretty hard. In short, I love to dream about other worlds and I love anything to do with space or exploring it, so to find this random and rather special place, and then to spend the next few days just soaking it all in was total total heaven for me. It really blew my mind if I’m honest. This unplanned camp spot was just a feeling and a nice looking desert mountain I decided to walk up into at the end of the day…. I walked off piste […]

The Atacama Desert….Short cuts and shortages.

After a few days riding north from Santiago I quickly began to realize that I was fast approaching the desert. All the trees were long gone and so were the shrubs also the all important rivers had dried up. This was the point I had to start thinking about how much water I would need per day and how many days it was in between towns. You cant really read this sort of thing in a book, or use a formula… I think the only way is to head out there, carry as much water as possible and see what […]

Civilization in the form of Santiago, Chile

After over a month or so of remote places I have arrived at the sprawling metropolis of Santiago home to over 5 million people. On this trip I never planned on doing the tourist thing in any big cities but on the approach to Santiago I met a cycle tourist who pretty much convinced me to spend the day cruising around the city and to ride up the Cerro San Christogh he also very kindly gave me a load more welcome advice about the road ahead too. Anyway as it was Sunday, also haunted with the fact that It might […]

Octopus and a moonbase en route to Puerto Montt.

One of the coolest things about travelling this much on a bicycle is the ever changing landscape and climate especially travelling north. At the moment a lot of the places are looking a lot like England in the summer although the houses are made of wood with tin roofs and the roads are like the video above. After 80 or so miles on remote roads like this I’m never going to complain about British Roads again, these roads zap the energy straight out of your legs but combine that, with being fully loaded and going uphill in the heat it’s […]

Patagonian fJords and the Carratera Austral

The Carratera Austral is probably the most epic road in the world to ride on. It’s quite wild though meaning slow going on the bike in a nice way…. gravel road – Boat trip – gravel road – boat trip. The bike is really in it’s element too, this type of terrain is is exactly what the bike was built for. Hitting rocks and holes with all this weight on must be butting some serious strain through the frame and thin pannier racks especially on the proper off road sections whilst hunting for camp spots, Don’t know how it’s still […]

Lago General Carrera

It’s about 200 miles around lake General Carerra. When I was at home looking on google earth I planned to ride around it, but stood here looking across, I’m thinking about Investing the time with my phrase book, finding the boat ticket office and hoping my last 8000 pesos will bag me a ticket when it next heads off from here. After Getting a ticket I just chilled at the harbor for a really nice 6 hours in the sun (which is extra strong here) and then I was setting sail to the other side smiling at the miles I […]

Warmer and longer days in the saddle.

The Argentinian side of the Patagonian mountains is an endless ride of flat plains and pretty much nothingness for 250 miles at a time. There wasn’t much to see here just gravel roads so I just rode all day every day for about 14 hours at a very very steady pace. Once that long stretch was over I turned m back on the plains and headed west back into the wild Patagonian mountains. I had to across the border into Chile (again) and the temperature rocketed upwards to 25 C. The first town I came to was Chile Chico, It […]

Leaving Ice for Argentina

Riding down Into Argentina through Los Glacieres was  awesome, it’s one of the few places for miles that didn’t suffer the mass burning of trees a few decades ago. You have to pay 2600 pesos to enter but if like me you stay here for a few days and camp (which is perfectly fine as long as you don’t damage any trees) you certainly get your money’s worth. Probably the most peaceful place I’ve camped and ridden so far, and because of  higher tourism, the roads are paved which is such a luxury for this part of the world.  

Patagonia (south)

After a few long days getting into it and refining my system (s) I now have a little place for everything and loving just cruising and camping out in this epic and really Isolated landscape. Having no Cafe’s or shops has taken some getting used to though, here you literally have to carry a weeks worth of food, and drink from the rivers, I’m using a Katadyn water filter which is the coolest thing ever for an adventure like this…. Yea ok you could probably drink the water anyway but I can get a few litres hang it in a […]

Magallanes y la Antarctica

Leaving the Dark English winter behind and heading this far south is a huge contrast especially In December as the sun here barely sets here being their summer solstice. On the way down I met a lady on the plane who worked for The Times and was heading off on a one month Antarctic Trip from Punta Arenas where we were landing, It sounded amazing. It’s only when she asked me where I was heading that the gravity of this expedition hit me. Her eyebrows raised as soon as I said ‘the Caribbean coast of Colombia by bicycle’ and so […]